Wednesday, June 29, 2016

51. Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Sweden May 16-28, 2016 (Part V)


Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Sweden May 16-28, 2016 (Part V)

Drive to London took longer than expected as last 10 miles were in town.  Time will tell how many “low emission tickets” I get in the mail over the next 90 days!  My schedule for Thursday and Friday May 26 and 27 was very very busy.  On 5/27, I played Addington GC which is within London and south of town; then I played Liphook GC which is southwest of London about 20 miles past the great Surrey collection of courses.  I had to drive to Heathrow Thursday afternoon to catch a flight to Copenhagen. 

Addington and Liphook are both on the MacWood spoof list, and after playing these two I had only Manoir Richelieu (95 miles east of Quebec City) left to play to complete the MacWood list.  I stayed at the hotel at the Copenhagen airport Thursday night, then headed east into Sweden and then north to play two former Solheim Cup courses.  Playing these two Swedish tracks completed all of the overseas “Cup Ever” courses.  I then stay again at the Copenhagen airport Friday night and on Saturday morning flew to Dublin and met Pat there (she had been traveling with Sharon Lawson…Sharon and her husband Carnie are close friends from Pinehurst), and then we flew back to Boston Saturday afternoon.  And no, I did not play golf  Sunday May 29!

Addington GC, May 26, 2016:  It seemed very strange to be at a course inside London.  Until I studied the MacWood list and planned out how to complete it, I had never heard of Addington.  Addington was designed by J. F. Abercromby and opened around 1914.  About 10 years later Abercromby built a second 18 (“New”) that many considered even better than the Old.  However, during WWII New was for military purposes and toward the end of that war, it was purchased (under the English version of eminent domain) for housing and no longer exists.  Frankly, who knows if the Addington listed on MacWood’s spoof list was the Old or the New?  In either case, I have completed what still remains of the list since I have now played the Old and the New no longer exists!

The course is only 6300 yards (par 69) from the tips and I played from those tees.  The first hole here is an uphill par 3 of 155 yards.  The pin was way up front so I hit a five iron to the front edge and sunk the putt for a birdie…and then proceeded to par the par 5 second and par 3 third…one under through 3!!  Thought I might get something going but then my semi-ugly twin showed up on a few of the other holes.  Finished the front with a 3 over 37, and then played well from 10-13 (four pars).  Reality then reappeared mixed in with a couple of more pars and I played finished the back nine with a four over 39 for a 76. 

The course has “great bones” but its “skin” has suffered mightily of late.  While the land is reputed to be among the best of England’s heathland, years of neglect are quite evident.  The most striking and memorable aspects of the course are the numerous ravines the dictate play on so may holes, and the rickety old wooden bridges (most of which probably date from 1914) used to cross the ravines.

I think the best and most interesting holes are:

#6—375 par 4, downhill off tee and then the approach shot must skirt a ravine (with a rickety old bridge over it) short and right;
#7—150 yard par three (over another ravine and with another rickety old bridge) to a very narrow but deep green (shaped a little like Myopia Hunt’s #9, but not as extreme);
#12—485 par 5 acclaimed in some literature, but very strange…fairway stops at about 250 yards then drops down to a shallow shelf about 8-10 yards deep…then falls off again into a deep ravine before rising up to the green (this ravine is akin to the moon);
#13---230 yard par 3with a long carry to the green front; often compared to #5 at Pine Valley but me thinks this comparison is overdone (but will note that I got my par here);
#17—195 yard par 3 over another deep ravine and crossed by another rickety old bridge.

In summary a very unusual course.  Needs to remove thousands of trees, but I somehow suspect a major tree removal program (which would be required to promote healthy turf) would not be warmly received in this part of England. 

Liphook Golf Club, May 26, 2016: After a quick thank you and goodbye, it was back in my car and off to the southwest and Liphook Golf Club.  Liphook plays to just about exactly Addington’s yardage but to a par 70 rather than Addington’s 69.  The club was founded in 1922 and had 18 holes completed by the following year.  Originally designed by Arthur Croome, it was to be Croome’s only course.  Later, Tom Simpson, a business partner of Croome’s made significant modifications to the course…and it should be noted that their firm was named Fowler, Abercromby, Simpson, and Croome.  Is the same Abercromby who designed Addington?  Who knows?…I have seen it spelled Abercrombie and Abercromby.

It is a stunningly beautiful course and has been working over the past decade to bring out its beauty and improve the features of the course.  I played with John D., a member of the Board who had worked for P&G in Cincinnati and Europe and is now retired.  Like Addington, Liphook also starts with a par 3 but this one is a stout 202 yards and is a beautiful hole with a tough green to hold (slopes left to right).  Both John and I managed to par it but my game went downhill from there (observant followers of this blog will note the lack or quantification of my game that afternoon).

I thought the best stretches of holes were 7-10, and 12-16.  #7 is a short 149 yards slightly downhill par 3 to a green that is difficult to hold…two tiered and narrow in front.  When you stand on the 7th tee, the view goes past 7 to the 8th which follows the same direction…reminding me of two par 4’s at Swinley Forest that offer a similar view.  Additionally, the 13th tee is just to the left of #7 and the view highlights #13 as well.  #8 is an excellent mostly uphill par 4.   #12 is a brute of a par 4, 440 yards and uphill to the green.  #15 is a short (357 yards) but very tough par 4 that goes uphill from the tee and has a very very deep bunker (I can testify to that fact) at the corner of the dogleg right…this is a spot to be avoided!  Finally #16 is a very downhill dogleg left par 4 of 371 yards whose fairway narrows considerably about 230 yards off the tee, and whose green is very tough to hold.

Sum and substance…a course one could play every day and always enjoy it.  Tough greens, firm fast conditions, and great character.  A good choice for MacWood’s list even if not well known.

After finishing the round, had a quick chat with both John and the Club’s Secretary John Douglass), I headed to Heathrow for my flight to Copenhagen (8:30pm departure).  When I hit the M25 (the Ring Road around London), I hit some big time delays.  As I watched the clock tick down and the ETA get extended on GPS, I sorted out another route.  But then, when I arrived at Heathrow, I saw there are separate car rental locations for each company…and there were no signs for Europcar!!  Finally found someone who directed me the correct way but pulled into their car return station at 7:37, all of 53 minutes before my departure time!!  Seemed like no way.  I rushed into the office and shouted, “you guys are well hidden and I have a flight in 53 minutes”…and out came a guy from behind the counter who said “give me your keys”.  The following 7-minute drive to my terminal was like driving with Jack Bauer!!  Pat would have gone nuts.  We got to the terminal at 7:45…and tipped the Europcar driver,  rushed to SAS and jumping into their “priority” area.   The woman there asked if I was business class or priority and I said “no but my flight leaves in 45 minutes”.  She checked me in within about 90 seconds.  Fortunately, because it was late in the evening security was quick, and I arrived at the gate by 8:08, boarding with time to spare.  If I wasn’t tired yet, I certainly was now.

All I can say about my choice of a hotel right at the Copenhagen airport is that I was most pleased with that choice.  Quick walk to the hotel (rental car scheduled for pickup in morning) and I needed my sleep!!  Last day of golf for the trip coming tomorrow…36 holes in Sweden.

Barseback G &CC-Masters Course, May 27, 2016:  After picking up my car, I headed east over the beautiful bridge/tunnel connecting Denmark to Sweden.  I had made a similar trip in June 2015 to play Falsterbo (and then flew north to Stockholm to play Bro Hof Slott).  This time, instead of turning south to go to Falsterbo, I turned north heading toward Barseback G&CC, which had hosted the 2003 Solheim Cup, a choice pointing to the importance of Annika Sorenstam to the Ladies tours.

At Barseback I was met by Johan Lindeberg, a Swedish golf journalist who is a friend of a friend of a friend.  Johan is about my age and has been playing golf for 58 years.  He played both rounds with hickories, which was my first time playing a full round with someone using them.  I was astounded how far he could it the ball (and how well) with them.

The Masters Course was designed for the 2003 Solheim Cup and totals almost 7300 yards.  It is part of a large resort and conference center with 45 holes of golf and the Masters Course has three main sections.  Holes 1-7 are in fairly open areas; holes 8-11 are near the water and very exposed to the wind, and holes 12-18 are in a heavily wooded area.  The best holes are #8 and #11.  At the 8th tee, we were joined by Henrik Stenson’s father, Ingemar, who played 8-18 with us.  Very nice guy and fun to be with. 

Thoughts on the course?  To be fair, I was very tired that morning, and anxious to see Pat and get home.  But even accounting for that, the course is not one that I would want to play on a regular basis…it rarely offers the golfer options and rarely presents captivating risk/reward situations.  Good course?, maybe.  Anything better?, no!

After the round we headed north to Halmstad, stopping at Johan’s house to switch cars (I wanted to minimize the amount of driving I needed to do…and also wanted to maximize available time for napping on the way to and from Halmstad. 

Halmstad Golf Club-North Course, May 27, 2016:  Halmstad was hosting a BMW corporate event that day so our tee off time was to be around 4pm and we were assured that we would be able to play the course with no one in front of us.  We played with Michael Brostrom, a young journalist friend of Johan’s who is a member of Halmstad and a very good player (and very long hitter).  Halmstad hosted the 2007 Solheim Cup (Annika’s importance again).  From the back it is about 7050 yards and is located in a very heavily wooded area with almost all of the holes separated from other holes by the dense trees.  We zipped around quickly for the first six holes but then hit a wall and it was excruciatingly slow from then on (members had started at various holes after the shotgun event concluded).  But at this point, being so close to finishing all courses outside of North America that I had on any conceivable bucket list, I wanted to finish.  Actually playing much better than in the morning.

While this is not my type of course, I liked it more than Barseback, and Michael is a nice guy (Johan is as well).  We finished about 25 minutes before sunset, and Johan and I headed south, first to his house (to retrieve my car) and them me solo to the Copenhagen airport, where I arrived at about 10:45pm…a very tired puppy.

The next morning, I flew to Dublin and waited for Pat and Sharon’s flight to arrive from London.  Was wonderful to see her and then get home, even with the cold that I had caught the week before!

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So that ended the trip.  Of course, I owe you the story of my suitcase shipment using DHL.  That will be in another post.

I am writing this on June 29, 2016 (only 4 weeks in arrears).  My two previous days have been spent at Brae Burn CC in West Newton, MA and Skokie CC in Glencoe, IL, hosts of the 1919 and 1922 US Open’s respectively…completing my US open Venue Bucket List covering all venues through history, as well as all announced venues for future US Opens.  So now, only Cabot Cliffs remains for me to complete my three primary Bucket Lists!!

I am scheduled to play Cabot Cliffs on July 8 and will bring you up to date with my golfing activities over the past 30 days before that time.

Sunday, June 26, 2016

50. Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Sweden May 16-28, 2016 (Part IV)

Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Sweden May 16-28, 2016 (Part IV)


After playing Killeen Castle, I flew back to England and arrived at Stansted airport north of London at 4:50pm.  My original schedule called for me to drive about 90 miles north (a little over 2 hours) and play Royal West Norfolk GC (Brancaster) early on Wednesday May 25 and then drive to Royal Worlington (which is about half way between London and Brancaster) and play Royal Worlington Wednesday afternoon. 

Given that I had used a cart Tuesday morning at Killeen, I was not at all tired so I called Royal Worlington to see if I could play that afternoon.  The Secretary’s assistant advised that it would be no problem so long as I arrived before 7pm…which was very doable.  Remember…Worlington is 9 holes, so I had plenty of time to play it before sunset at 9:03pm.

Royal Worlington and Newmarket Golf Club, May 24, 2016: I arrived around 6:30 and just loved the place at first sight.  The club was founded in 1893 and ever since has been the home course for the Cambridge University Golf Club, whose first Captain was none other than Harry Colt, one of the most prolific and greatest architects who ever lived.  The course often is referred to as “The Sacred Nine”, a named bestowed upon it by Bernard Darwin, generally considered the greatest golf writer to ever live.

Now, take a look at the clubhouse…

 
Perfect Clubhouse

Somehow, the phrase “over the top” does not seem to apply.

Then, if one turns around to look at the first tee, one comes upon the following sign…



I proceeded to pay my green fee and then returned to my car in the small parking lot.  There was an elderly member who had just finished walking nine holes (pulling at pull-cart) and we chatted briefly.  He had just completed his 73rd year as a member!!

After that introduction to the Club, it was off to play.  The course is simply so unusual.  First of all, at 3123 yards (par 35 with five of the holes playing as “half-par holes”) from the “tips” and very fast firm conditions, I could easily play the back tees. My guess is that the course is laid out on about 40 acres…minimizing land use by having some holes cross over other holes (for example, the tee shot on the par 4 third is directly over the green of the par 3 second).  These “apparent” problem areas in terms of player safety work beautifully (in the case of holes 2 and 3…play proceeds faster on a par 4 than a par 3, so after a group finishes #2, it can quickly tee off on #3 before the following group has reached the second green…for sure the “no threeball or fourball” rule helps considerably).  What makes the course so wonderful in my mind, are the multitude of “half-par” holes and three other factors.  First the sandy firm soil which virtually guarantees very firm/fast conditions throughout the year.  Second, the wonderful and totally natural rolls, bumps, mounds and valleys that cover virtually all of the property.  The ball can bounce in almost any direction, but generally predictably if one knows the property.  I sense that it takes dozens if not hundreds of rounds to truly understand the nuances of the ground game here.  Third are the greens, which are as difficult as any I have ever seen.

I also had the luck of playing it late in the day (and it was a beautifully bright, clear and crisp day) when the shadows highlighted the grounds contours and added to the mystical qualities of the course.  One picture is beautifully frozen in my mind.  When I teed off on the long (460 yards) par 4 6th, the sun was quite low in the sky directly behind the tee, and in the direction of the green and tee shot, the sky was filled with dark clouds.  I hit my drive well, and with the sun illuminating the ball, it looked like it was on fire!  I shall never forget that sight.

I hit the ball well but ended with a 42 (7 over par).  The course is simply bedeviling and so so much fun.  Yes, as least as much fun as Cape Wickham!!  I truly felt honored to have the opportunity to play it.

While it has never appeared in a “regular” World 100, Royal Worlington did appear in Tom MacWood’s spoof list, sharing #100 with Prairie Dunes (Kansas), which was a nine holer at that time.  I neglected to mention in an earlier post that Burnham & Berrow was also on the MacWood list…so now I had 4 courses left.

I offer up the following pictures and one video…of the impossible 5th green.  I also would suggest that you go to http://golfclubatlas.com/courses-by-country/England/rwn/ for Ran Morrissett’s far more organized, clear and lucid description (and with better pics).  Thank you Ran, and thank you Royal Worlington and Newmarket Golf Club.

Green on long par 3 second

Brutally tough green on par 3 5th

Video of par 3 5th green


After the round, I had another 90 minutes to get to my hotel (actually a room over a pub) near Brancaster.  I arrived there around 10:30pm…at this point very tired.  As I had learned earlier in the day, DHL had mis-directed my suitcase, and that issue would take a bunch of my time over the next two days (I will devote another post to this story). 

The next morning, it was up early for a 20 minute drive to Brancaster.

Royal West Norfolk Golf Club (Brancaster), May 25, 2016:  Another very special club, starting with the Memorial Gate that commemorates members who lost their lives in World War I and World War II.  Brancaster is built near a tidal flood region, so I was advised to get there before 9am or otherwise the entry road would be impassable due to tidal flooding.  I was scheduled to play with the Club’s Secretary, Ian Symington…and Ian was a special host.  The clubhouse here seems virtually unchanged since the club’s founding in 1892.  Sitting right against the North Sea (but protected by a narrow strip of dunes), the course is usually buffeted by strong winds. This day would be no exception…the winds were strong, the temperature around 50F, and the rains intermittent for about 5 holes and heavy for about 6 holes.  I was very cold by the time the round ended…but was also exhilarated.  By the way, as with Worlington, no three ball or four ball matches allowed here.

While never on a regular World Top 100, Brancaster was on MacWood’s list.  It totals 6478 yards (par 71)…short by today’s standards but in the wind it can bear its teeth…and it is great fun.  Many of Brancaster’s bunkers are lined by wooden planks (known as “sleepers” and similar to those found at Prestwick in Scotland) and later incorporated by Pete Dye in many of his courses (famously at Harbour Town on Hilton Head Island, SC).  The bunkering here is very tough and play on the difficult 8th and 9th is most assuredly affected by the tides…where low lying marsh areas fill with water during very high tides (we did not experience this).  #8 is a 503 yard par 5 (except that we played into a fierce wind (25-30mph) with a drive to a “island fairway”…and then a difficult choice between trying to carry the marsh again of laying up for a long third.  #9 is a 403 yard par 4, also played into the wind to a green well protected by marsh lands and a bunker with sleepers.

I love the feeling of playing a great old course, where one feels like they have stepped back 100+ years in time.  These last two days afforded me the chance to play two of the world’s best examples of this!

After a quick lunch, it was off to London...two more days and 4 courses left!!

49. Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Sweden May 16-28, 2016 (Part III)


Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Sweden May 16-28, 2016 (Part III)

I was scheduled to play Burnham & Berrow Golf Club’s Championship Course at 9:45am with Keith Baxter, who created www.top100golfcourses.co.uk.  B&B is located in southwestern England, south of Wales and is about a 30-mile drive from Celtic Manor.  Later in the day I was flying to Dublin, Ireland and was scheduled to play at Dun Laoghaire Golf Club south of Dublin.  It was to be a busy day. 

But first, since I was only going to Ireland for about 20 hours, I was shipping my large suitcase via DHL to my Tuesday night hotel in England.  I arrange for the folks at Celtic Manor to arrange the shipment and gave them my credit card number to pay for the shipment (less expensive and much easier than taking the suitcase on two flights…at least it should have been…more in later posts).

Burnham & Berrow GC, May 23, 2016: I arrived at B&B around 8am to meet Keith for breakfast.  Keith lives near B&B but is not a member.  Turns out that in the 1980’s or so he worked for Citibank in London in data processing…we traded Citi stories but of course most of the conversation was about golf.

B&B was founded in 1890 and started as a 9 hole course, which later expanded to 18 holes about 7 years later.  An impressive list of architects contributed to the evolution of this wonderful links course including Herb Fowler, Hugh Alison, Harold Hilton, Dr. Alistair MacKenzie, and Harry Colt.  It is built on wonderful terrain running between well-formed dunes that in some ways reminded me of The Island Club north of Dublin.  You can get a sense of the terrain from these pictures of the blind tee shot on #10 and the uphill par 3 14th (193 yards). 
 
Totally blind tee shot on par 4 10th
 
Tee shot #14 par 3



I thought the other best holes were 9 (169 yard par 3 well protected by deep bunkers in front—see pic below), 12 (loved the green setting), 17 (a tough tough slightly downhill par 3 over all sorts of mini-mounds), and 18, a brutal dogleg left par 4 to a green well protected by three bunkers right and a slightly raised green which then runs away from you (yes, back nine better than the front)!  

Tee shot par 3 9th

Unfortunately the rains of the previous couple of days left the course in less than perfect condition.  At some point I would like to get back here…perhaps on a trip also encompassing a return to St. Enodoc which Pat and I played and loved a year ago.  Me thinks B&B is a superb course, but I have a sense that St. Enodoc is the best of the courses in Southwestern England.  I had a poor front and a good back nine shooting 46-41 = 87.

After the round we quickly packed everything up and I headed to Bristol airport for my flight to Dublin, which I caught without a lot of time to spare.  The flight was on time and then I had a 50 mile drive to Dun Laoghaire…racing against the sun and a 9:30 sunset (my flight arrived on time at 4:50pm, but I had to get the rental car and drive 30 miles in rush hour.  With the exception of a couple of jam-ups, the drive went smoothly and I arrived at the course around 6:15pm.

Dun Laoghaire Golf Club, May 23, 2016:  Originally known as the Kingstown GC, this club was 18 holes on a smallish (80 acre) tract of land…and renovated by Harry Colt in 1918.  The club sold its property to a real estate developer in 2003 and then built a 27 hole facility which opened in 2007 and was designed by Martin Hawtree’s firm (unclear how much of the architectural work was done by Hawtree himself).  Earlier this month the club hosted the 2016 Curtis Cup Matches.  The course is set in a valley amongst the Wicklow Mountains in a beautiful (but parkland) setting.   The three nines are called Upper, Middle, and Lower; I played the Middle and Upper, which also constituted the 18 holes used for the Curtis Cup.  Cup seemed very active both with golfers and folks getting ready for the Curtis Cup.  Told everyone I met that they would never work so hard and also never have so much fun!!

Course is good, but certainly not a World 100 candidate.  Very hilly terrain, and was in very good condition (although not firm/fast).  As the sun went down later in the afternoon, some of the views especially on the Upper Nine (which I played second) are shown in the pictures below and were spectacular…see picture below from 8th tee on Upper about 35 minutes before sunset.

 
Par 3 8th Upper Nine

Had a very good 2nd nine (on Upper) with a strong birdie to finish and shot 43-38 = 81.  Finished 18 about 10-15 minutes before sunset, and then drove about 45 miles north to my hotel located NE of Dublin and near Killeen Castle, a Jack Nicklaus course where I had a tee time at 8:00 the next morning.

Killeen Castle Golf Club, May 24, 2016:  Arrived at Killeen Castle at around 7:30am and the clubhouse was locked up tight as a drum.  A member of the staff arrived at 7:45am and I was able to have breakfast but the pro shop did not open until 8:15 (staff member had car troubles), but was able to get right off.

Visually, this course is something to behold…architecturally not so good.  It is built on 350 acres (if you didn’t know it, most courses are built on 120-160 acres!) on the grounds of an old estate with a magnificent castle sitting right behind the 18th green (see pic below…and sorry about the camera angle).

Par 4 18th with Killeen castle behind green

The course is a mere 7677 yards (par 72) and recommended pace of play for a four ball is 4:50.  Hosted the Solheim Cup in 2011.  Why anyone with half a brain would come to Ireland to play this course is beyond me (unless, of course, they had a dumb Bucket List to finish).  Anyhow, I was warned by Fergal and others…this one belongs with Celtic Manor 2010, The K Club, Gleneagles Centennial, etc.,…, big, long and boring.  Fired a smooth 46-45 = 91.

The good news was that I had at least two great ones to play in the following 24-30 hours and was looking forward to them with great anticipation…also hoping they would not disappoint!